All resistance measurements should be made with the power off. One of the first places to look is the ground. You currently have 0 posts. Remove sender usually pink wire from back of gauge. I want to thank for the information I read about.
Or possibly the center terminal on the sending unit itself is grounding out against the body of the car. My guess is there is a bad ground or wire somewhere. Wire the resistors in series to make a resistor pack and cover it with heat shrink tubing or electrical tape. However pay close attention to the way the capacitor is oriented on the board. At Speedway Motors we see this regularly, which compelled us to share this video our friends at put together to help illustrate some of the various issues you may encounter, as well as some of the options available to you to fix the issue. Fuel gauge sender testing and replacement The next steps require dropping the fuel tank and removal of the fuel level sender.
The same goes for after market sending units that you might get with a fuel cell. Move the float arm up and down. Go out to radio shack, buy a 0-100 ohm potentiometer, or a pack of 20, 40, and 80 ohm resistors, disconnect the connector in the trunk, stick one end of each resistor one at a time into the connector, and ground the other end to the body. So if the sender resistor is linear throughout ist range, you should have a very accurate fuel gauge reading. For example a 73-10 ohm fuel sender would read backwards on a 0-90 ohm fuel gauge.
I don't remember if Autometer gauges ever used one. Compare the ohms output with the expected ohm output. I think I've figured it out why it bounces but I don't want to bother you with all kind of tests because I don't have a pre '72 sender to check it out myself. Factory Fit logo is a registered trademark. You will then want to make sure the gauge you have matches the sender in your vehicle. This setup will calibrate the gauge to the sender exactly. Make sure nothing is touching that isn't supposed to and turn the ignition switch to Run.
With the multimeter set to the Ω setting put the red probe on the post that is the gauge lead and put the black probe on the ground post or on the body of the fuel sender. I was unable to reproduce the results others have gotten building the resistor bridge using either their calculated or experimentally found recommended resistor values. Although it would be easier to sell the new sender and get a sender that matches the gauge instead of the other way around. You will need to contact the manufacturer of the gauge before you proceed any further. If the gauge responds by going to empty, then the gauge is likely fine.
It moves when i shut the car off sometimes, not all the time. A trip to Radio Shack for the closest combination of resistors to make 83. Remember the last time you and your wife had to walk halfway home from a cruise night? They demonstrate how you can easily find this out, and also tell you the ranges that apply to the various years of vehicles you may encounter. As long as the guage is made for a 0-90 sender it should be fine. I had the same problem with my application, stock 66 mustang sender and an ultralight gauge.
You have to anyway so nothing wasted. Most newer aftermarket gauges these days are programmable so you may be able to reconfigure it. As the contact point moves across them, they wear out over time, notice how they are all worn down? The sender then makes the variable part of the resistor make the gauge move as the fuel level repositions the sender to a different resistance. Well like most of you I got the auto-meter fuel gauge made for Ford's pre 1989. All I can say is I had the spike before the intercooler and didn't have it after it. Pay attention to which end is connected to which hole on the board. The 5-holes are not evenly spaced.
See Original Post: Other Related Problems: Float Not Floating: Remove the pump from the tank and see if the float is still floating. Hi all, Had the Mustang into the dealer to run a bunch of diagnostics and the mechanic said that my Autometer fuel gauge was not working correctly. To test to make sure its not a bad ground on the fuel sender disconnect the fuel gauge sender in the trunck and ground it to the car body, see if the gauge goes to E, if it does then its your sender's ground cable. Here is a picture of a 1985-1988 sending unit. I believe it's built into the sending unit told to me by an Auto Elec.
The fuel gauge should immediately go to empty. It will not work if they are not the same. That being said, the gauge in your Chevy may look a little different with all of the terminals connected to it. You get accurate detent of no fuel level, to full level. The guage seems to act like its wired backwards going full scale when the car is off, and only coming slightly off the high scale when the key is off and the tank empty.